Whatever you might say about alternative fashion, one thing is quite stable right now – it’s damn hard to find a tabula rasa, a direction nobody has taken yet. Mainly because the most of designers are strictly confined with the idea, that… well, they should make something people would wear all the time :) Looks consistent, doesn’t it? Actually not always, because there’s such sort of fashion as the one aimed for the very special kind of customers. This apparel isn’t meant to be seen in the street or in the office (ok, depends on what kind of an office we’re talking about), it’s rather for the financially sufficient people who love certain aesthetics, because buying and collecting this kind of garments is pretty much the same as buying and collecting the art objects. It’s expensive, hand-made and highly unique, some pieces even exist in a single copy. Got an idea?
AMF Korsets (AMF is acronym for Aesthetic Meat Factory) is a very unusual brand founded by clothing designer Louis Fleischauer. He was born in Leipzig, East Germany and it were the late 80’s when he got seriously attracted by the gothic subculture, which was definitely gathering momentum at that time. As a teenager goth (or “gruftie” as they say in Germany) Louis felt a certain need to look differently, but of course didn’t have any real chance to get the gothic clothes in the Communist GDR. To his credit he didn’t give up and turned the problem into an opportunity – eventually he started to design and sew some of his garments himself. As Louis says, the fact that GDR was so conservative and so much locked from the rest of world affected him very much professionally, since he had no other way but start experimenting and designing his goth outfits somehow. What was important too – since there were no goth shops in GDR Louis had almost nothing to get influenced by and as a result he just let his imagination run wild. Don’t you think it is something a lot of modern designers miss? Any way around the end of 80’s he did his first steps to the world of alternative fashion and started to work with leather in 90’s. In the beginning of 90’s Louis moved to USA (at first to Albuquerque, New Mexico and then – to Los Angeles), but in 2008 got back to Germany, reportedly because he was disgusted by how Bush-administration was ruling the country. Since then his brand AMF Korsets was very active across all the Europe and beyond.
As you might notice, Louis Fleischauer really loves working with leather, and looking at what he manages to come up with, I totally understand why. It’s just some kind of a dark avant-garde magic, an act of some grim bionic genius… The leather is designed to look almost alive on the human body, like if an alien parasite took you up, but instead of killing you just improved your carcass both functionally and visually. A lot of in a manner of speaking similar brands (by far the majority) look at the corsets as the foundation they proceed from, and AMF Korsets is no exception. Still in spite of the fact that all their corsets are incredible, Louis has gone way farther to design lots of outfits with various accessories growing together to form something both nightmarish and beautiful. Like masks with various fleshly cuts with the human eyes looking out from them, raw stitches, stones, metal elements and even bones.
I’m afraid I cannot suggest this brand to just anyone, but I bet those who need these garments know why they need them very well. I even wouldn’t be surprised if some people managed to make a huge collections of AMF stuff in their wardrobes, because it’s a kind of clothing you’d either hate or love to death. Though I have to say as a hand-made it’s really expensive. AMF Korsets don’t believe in mass production and it means every product you can find on their website is literally unique, and this kind of clothing art just can’t be cheap.